Well, I’ve played around with all sorts of mixes and additives in my search for the best for me medium. After all that I’ve come back full circle, using just floetrol, paint and water. silicon as wanted. I forgot the alchohol a few times and there seemed no difference so I leave that out too now. Here’s a quick video showing how I mix my paints, and the different brands I use.
Then using those colours I tried for a hammer smash painting. Forgot quite how to do it, used a mallet with a plastic bag over and frankly it was a fail. Looked at more and i need to leave off the bag, and hit much harder!! New attempt later this week….
I ended tilting and tipping the smash, adding more colour, swiping and tilting again. finally put it to one side not happy with it and then next day dropped an acrylic sheet in it while it was still damp….I think the universe was telling that was a fail 😉 Still, a canvas for re-pouring and some lessons learned, and I had fun. I’ll post dry pics of these and what I did with the residue paint in a couple of days.
When they’re dry I’ll update and compare the difference. Nathan used elmers in a 2 parts pva 1 part water ratio, then add paint and thin if necessary. He’s seen a video. From my pva experiments i felt it would crack but he was sure it wouldn’t. Its still drying but there are some cracks so for me, with my paints elmers used solely or in this ratio won’t work.
I’ve added liquitex glazing medium and a dash of floetrol in my experiments. Not sure what the glazing medium will do but it arrived Thursday so seemed a good time to try it. My paints are mostly heavy body, so I thought maybe it would be better to try this instead of so much water to thin. I do want to try maybe a floetrol and no water just glazing medium to see how that works, though I think that would work out expensive at the rate I play with paints…maybe a 50:50 mix might work.
NB Forgot to mention – there’s an error in next video, I said no silicon used but I sprayed inside cup before adding paints for dirty pour, and I added quick spray in yellow and red of the elmers glue cups… sorry. Very little overall though for all those cells 😉
I tried liquitex pouring medium as a final cover, saw another artist recommending it but so far, a week later, the surface is still easy to scratch though it looks very resin like. I pushed my fingernail in and it left a dent, and just running nails over the surface left scratches. I’d worry about damage, and of course LPM isn’t cheap either here in UK.
I tried PVA but that didn’t have the smooth surface though did dry clear, and still had that easy scratch issue. I love the look of resin, just can’t get it right…..and its so expensive to practice with.
I’m trying a higher % alcohol as I saw it recommended. TBH I’m not sure what difference alcohol makes but I did get some biggish cells with this mix. I did a simple swipe using black on a 4×4 inch canvas. I also used the same colours in a larger rectangular one but that didn’t have such large cells, however I did feel the acetate sheet settling into the paint rather than swiping over on that one, and had to recover a few spots so that could be the reason. I need to play more before I can definitely say there’s a difference, but given price is similar I’ll probably use this as default just in case…..
Edit: Update on the housepaint experiments. They took a long while to dry, and yestrday I noticed lots of cracking on the sunflowers and the blue abstract. That’s only happened to me before when i used PVA glue instead of floetrol. It may be that I need more floetrol, it may be that its housepaint instead of my usual artists white or – and I think this is the cause – it may be that the white was too thick.
I do have issues with consistency and looking at vid and remembering it was quite thick, didn’t really flow well. I’ve got a couple of others drying that have the housepaint white and a floetrol ratio same as this, but where paint is thinner so when they dry that should tell me if I’m right and its that paint was too thick, or if its actually the lower floetrol. I might try two small ones, just pour the white as a thin and thick mix and see how they dry. I think that would show me a definite cause.
I’ve been playing with trying to video as I’m painting, and uploading to youtube as wordpress free site doesn’t support direct uploads.
This is a quick one showing what happened with a resin coat on an artwork I really like. I thought the resin would really enhance it but its full of tiny holes. Air bubbles I guess. Its a love hate thing, I love the look of resin finish, but hate the way its so easy to mess up. The cure time for this is only a few mins so I had to work quickly. I’ve had best results with pebeo, but that stuff costs so I’m trying a cheaper marine resin, which is a 1 part hardener to 50 parts resin so accuracy is essential. I’ve been weighing it though and now wonder if its a by volume percentage so need to read again to check. that might account for the ripples I have in the finish of the small ones, and two a did a couple of weeks back, compared to the lovely smooth glass like pebeo. My gran always said “cheap always comes dear in the end” and TBH I’m wondering if I just need to save resin for the favourites and suck up the extra cost.
I’ve also been experimenting with argon oil, hair conditioner and handcream in my quest for Big cells. I did go back to my original silicon too as got some good cells with that but I’d forgotten how it affected the paint, making surface uneven and leaving holes in pics every now and then which is why I stopped. I’ll show pics of those when dry. Suffice to say none were a great sucess, so I’m about to order dimethicone…….
I also had a good day gessoing lots of old canvases, pics I don’t like any more so I’ve a lovely batch ready for painting. Did a couple of big MDF bits I had lying round too.