Some swipes and some “pull” paintings – or perhaps “push ” might be more accurate…

I’d been pretty fed up of all the fails – downside to experiments is that lots of them Just Don’t Work – and while I expect that, its still frustrating. So I’ve had a few days of back to basics, just paint, floetrol, water and silicon. Done a few dirty pours then Monday I wanted to do a negative one with metallic paints and try to mimic peacock tail colours….sadly the green dominated, I used gold, blue, green, yellow and purple, but though I only had minimal green I think the blue and yellow combined too much and I ended with a green painting. I like it – but its not really what I wanted.
I used a bamboo skewer to pull out some of the edges, and to try to shape some circles in the green and dipped in to add a little more colour. the photo is while its still wet – they’re taking ages to dry lately, outside in my shed.


I had a bit of dark blue and purple left, so I decided to try something on the resin coated paper. I tipped it over a piece of card, dropped in a bit of non diluted gold and cerulean blue, spread round with palette knife and pressed another piece of card over the top, pressing down really firmly. then peeled back card. It reminds me of encaustic painting when I use an iron, where as I lift the iron the wax collects in shapes. I carried on with a couple more bits of card, then decided to try it on two bits of board. I scraped out all the purple and gold I had, squeezed on more of both straight from tube, plus cerulean blue and repeated above process. I did it a few times before I was happy. Not sure what I’ll do with these but it was fun 😉 I couldn’t resits a bit of glitter over them too….

The resin coated card

Still on the metallic theme i tried a swipe yesterday, its on canvas 20 in by 8 in. I poured lines of colour, dark purple divided into two and metallic medium added to one, same with the cerulean blue, a dark blue, magenta, pale pink, and gold, with some oyster pearl added to the pink and magenta. then white at both ends. And…. swipe – I loved the way it was straight away but the pic is about an hour later and somehow the cells lose some of their definition. I think maybe I have too much paint – I’ll try with less and see if that helps.
I’m hoping the metallic shows up more once its dry, and noticed as it was drying that some of the darker colours and the gold were slowly popping through. I like this one even though it wasn’t as crisp as I’d like.
Today the plan is to clean silicon of some dry ones ready for varnishing. and tidy my work space and add fresh paper….no painting, but somehow I think one might just sneak in 😉
I’ve put a recent card one in a frame and its hanging in my kitchen.

 

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Updates and new works.

house paint and water only, for the white.

cracked when dry, i thought maybe too thick but still cracked when thinner

Well, the housepaint isn’t a great sucess, tried it thick, tried it thin, tried with floetrol, tried with floetrol plus PVA and all produces cracks or separation of paint when dry 😦 I’m having one last try with no extras, just water and silicon. (see below, first pic) Sod’s law that i like the trial one better than the one i did with white artists acrylic ( second pic). Fiddled too much, a huge issue I always have, knowing when to stop!

I’ve had a few failures besides these…and painted over them 😉 Nathan, no 2 grandson who is 12, came to paint again recently. The kids all love doing these, they choose colours and method and pretty much do it themselves now. I love his one here, black, white ( just a little of the housepaint – so far minimal cracking,) yellow and red. he did a flip cup dirty pour with minimal tilting and its gorgeous, reminds me of lava flows and volcanoes. These two were with floetrol, 100% alchohol and dimethicone. I’m using that all the while now instead of the other silicons I’ve tried, works best for me. I use a spray to coat inside cups to help paint pour out too. 

Mine wasn’t such a sucess, and paint has split in a few sections 😦 though doesn’t look as bad as cracking, I notice it but no-one else seems to, they think its part of the effects I wanted !! Still working ion trying to keep that “just out of the cup” look. As you can see this is on top of a “fail” from earlier, same colours, done on a piece of primed MDF. I love working on wood but its heavy, couldn’t lift for a flip cup….and of course needs framing. Still, I’ve some big 4 x 8ft sheets doing nothing in shed so my lovely big brother is going to cut some up for me 🙂
Still undecided about this one I did a few weeks back, will varnish and see then. The metallics made from mica plus floetrol worked well, I poured them over after pouring.

Its been a busy week, and when I have been home its been raining so I can’t get into artshed – raining right now too….yesterday it was fine so I spent the time varnishing the ones i’d removed silicon from on Friday. That’s the downside of silicon, removing it. The dimethicon I’ve been using sits on top of the dry painting and its easy to see it, not so easy to be sure you’re got it all….I spray with a 50-50 mix of washing up liquid and water, wipe off, then rub in talc, and wipe off with alcohol. I hate when varnishing and there’s silicon that resists the varnish.

Experimenting with dimethicon instead of treadmill silicon

So yesterday found me trying this out – and the results were great. If I can replicate them so I know it wasn’t one of those flukes, you know – when things go perfect despite what you do – then i’ll be sticking with this.

I’ve been using all sorts of silicon, some successfully some not. I found the spray went everywhere but it the pots, the cosmetic silicon left “holes” and thin spots in canvas sometimes, and the treadmill works OK, but still limited cells. So took the plunge and bought silicone number 4, some dimethicon.
I used the dulux paint for white, added silicone to colours, some blues, pinks and purples, a couple of which are metallic. They’re still pretty wet today, and the sunflower from friday is drying nicely but still not there. Not sure if its weather ot the dulux paint but we’ve (fingers crossed it stays) some sun today so that should help.
I’m trying to get best place for video to minimise glare and give a good shot of me working, showing the actual painting but still haven’t got there. sorry, Its a tight space though and little room for manouevre, but I will keep working at it and thanks for your patience so far.
I tried another flower one like the sunflower but a hydrangea this time. It was going well…til it wasn’t. I overworked it, fiddled too much, used too much colour and it was a mess. Left it as it was raining my my scooter getting wet. came back couple of hours later and i just didn’t like it so i mixed up quickly some more colors, red, yellow and ornage and used the little that was left in pots plus these, poured over at random and swiped the whole thing with acetate and love the result. its got a little gold sparkle dropped on too. today I want to see if I can get gold lacing….well, it might work abd ts fun trying.

this is the messy hydrangea. I just did Not Like it – knew I’d never be happy with it as it was so more paint and a good swipe turned it into the next one.

Links to materials I have used.

 

I’ve used all of these, some with success, some indifferent and some not really working for me. I’ll be adding to this page constantly as I find new things to try. Click on images for links or on words where I’ve managed to work it out…tech and I aren’t best friends so apologies now for where I’ve got things wrong!!
These are mostly Amazon and eBay sites, other stuff tends to come from small independent shops or materials I’ve had ages and can’t recall where from. I do get a small commission from the Amazon affiliate links and you may find products cheaper elsewhere. Mostly I look for cheapest I can get delivered as I don’t drive so amazon with Prime works for me.

This is Alcohol, and here supposed to help with cell formation. I’ve been using this, TBH sometimes I forget and its been fine, but depends on what look you want. I’ve also just received a higher % alcohol that I’ve not yet tried ( second image). I’ll report if it’s any better after I’ve used it.   

 

 Liquitex pouring medium. I bought the small size one to start, didn’t find much dif to Floetrol, but have just bought bigger bottle to try more.

Owatrol 1 Litre Floetrol Waterborne Paint Conditioner

This also comes in 2.5 ltr which is what I now use, and I think the last one I bought was from ebay which was a little cheaper but prices change quickly there sometimes.

 Windsor & Newton flow improver. tried this before I could get Liquitex, and before I tried Floetrol. It works but this tiny bottle doesn’t go far if you use lots as I do…..

 

 Spray silicon. the first one I tried but I found getting it into the paint difficult. I’d spray into cup then put my hand over but still seemed more in air than in paint. It is useful to spray into cups before pouring paint in, helps it tip out. I tend to spray the dirty cup before adding paint. On the plastic cups it works well, but as I kept tipping them over I now use paper ones and it isn’t quite as good there. maybe the paper absorbs it? who knows? I’ve seen US folk use Blaster silicon, but couldn’t find it here and others use WD40 but I haven’t tried it.
Cymethicone silicon. I found this left thin patches in the paint but others use it without problems.

 

 

Treadmill oil 

 

 

 

 

Kingfisher KC100CUP Disposable Plastic Cups 7oz Pack Of 100

 

 plastic cups I used these sometimes, but use paper cups more as I knock the plastic ones over. I also use small shot cups

 



Paper Towels

 

Butane torch. I found this a little small so bought a bigger one, but again, quite often i don’t need to torch at all, or torching doesn’t make any difference so its not essential.

 


Bigger torch  

 

This  is the second one I bought, first from another seller had no working piezo so I had to light with matches, no response from seller so I left a one star review and bought this one which is perfect. Keep torch away from canvas, I aim for about 8-10 inches as paint will steam and burn, and that’s not a good look!  Gas canisters are here.

A fire extinguisher is a good idea too, as with alchohol, silicon and varnishes etc in one place its safer to have something to hand to put out fires. This one I have comes with wall mount and a fire blanket. I have it right next to where I’m working. Its a powder aerosol one so not a single use one but can be reused. That makes it cheaper. actually I’m off to get a second one for indoors as I can’t find my one I’ve had ages and do have a habit of setting light to things accidentally….Its currently on special offer at £10.99 – much cheaper than others I’ve seen, but I don’t know how long it’ll be at this price.
Lolly sticks for mixing. these jumbo ones are great with bigger cups, and I’ve smaller ones for the shot glasses.

http://amzn.to/2wShmFdMasking tape  

 Polythene sheeting. this is the thin stuff, and I tape everything then roll it up and dispose when its really grubby. I’m messy, I need easy (ish) clean up.

Disposable gloves, great for us messy folk! I use loads. Tip: handcream is great for removing dried acrylic paint, rub all over and wipe with kitchen roll.

 Silicon paper, good for catching paint and easy clean up. you can make skins on it too. I set it on fire with blowtorch so take care! That’s why the fire extinguisher is essential!!

Acetate sheets Crafter's Companion ACETHR001 Printable Vellum Paper, Heat Resitant Acetate - 20 sheets

great for swiping. I took one out, put rest in “safe place” and can’t find them…so have just ordered more.

 

wrap useful for covering unused paints. I’ve also used it for swiping.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I use canvasses from lots of different places, but bought some on amazon, and I’ve old ones from places like ken bromley. I also use pieces of board, canvas board and wax art paper and acrylic art paper. Ordinary watercolour just soaks up the paint, it needs to have a coating of some kind.

Set of 6 Artists Blank Canvas - 15cm x 15cm Flat Canvas

 

 

 

 

Paints

I’ve been using a lot of these R&L paints as they come in 500ml pots. I do find the lids tend to flip back as I pour though so have to hold them back with my pinky finger, otherwise I end up with big lump paint in the lid and then it dries and won’t shut (oops, just put an i instead of the u….) properly.

This is R&L white, in 500 ml. I’m currently trying Dulux white housepaint as I use so much white, and it makes it much cheaper. Initial results look good. I wouldn’t use t for more expensive artworks but these are around £20-40 depending on size so anything to keep costs down and hopefully sell more is good. More money for new “stuff” !! R&L is around £8 for 500ml while the Dulux is currently £10 for 5lt. big difference. (Edit: I used the Dulux too thick and its cracked – at least I think that’s the reason so take care)
W&N white. Ran out of white and couldn’t get R&L, but these two are pretty interchangeable IMO

Mars Black. a lovely rich inky black

Cadmium Yellow

 R&L primary yellow. I like to have a range of colours and this is a nice bright yellow

another great yellow, lemon yellow. Makes some great acid greens with a dark transparent blue.

Primary Magenta – gorgeous rich almost fuschia pink

Windsor & Newton. I wanted an alizarin type red, this crimson is pretty close to what I wanted.

Cadmium Red, a nice bright red

Cobalt Violet, a very blue toned purple

Cerulean, a colour I use lots. Makes some fun greens.

 

 

Prussian blue
A lovely transparent deep blue

 

another blue – pthlalo turquoise, gorgeous colour.

 A gorgeous colour, Turquoise green. some colours you can mix, some you can and this is pricey but worth it IMO.

 

 

Daler - Rowney Graduate Acrylic 500ml Paint Ink Bottle - Burnt SiennaBurnt sienna.

No idea why this shows as purple 😉 its actually a lovely rich warm brown

Daler Rowney Graduate Acrylic - Metallic Set

Metallic paints

I love these, quite soft body paints but with a great shimmer. I also use micas to make metallic paints, get from soap making sites like this Cosmetic Mica Powder Burlesque Pink 3g-20g for Soap, Eyeshadow, Bathbombs (3g)

Varnish

 W&N Gloss varnish. I’ve used it a couple of times, its OK, not particularly glossy, quite a subtle shine. Maybe if I added more coats, I’ve only done two. I prefer others, the triple thick deco or the miniwax

Triple Thick. this only needs one coat but is quite “gloopy” so you need to be careful when using

 Pebeo Resin. My favourite finish but very expensive especially if like me you find cocking things up very easy……I’ve tried a cheaper marine varnish but that’s a 1:50 ratio instead of 1:2 as this is and far easier to get wrong, leading to poor finish or even not curing at all. So far I haven’t got it exactly right ;-(

Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating Aerosol Spray 6Oz

I’d heard this was good, its expensive and TBH I was disappointed in it. Its not glossy, leaves a definite kind of semi matt effect when i used it. Won’t buy again.

 

experiments with additives and new paints.

First off in the quest for big cells, and lacking dimethicone ( its on the way!) I tried what I’ve seen others use, hair conditioner. I also tried some argon oil – and some hand cream with the dimethicone in… and the last one is Cyclomethicone, the first oil I tired after spray silicon. It works but for me sometimes there are thin patches in paint, sometimes showing canvas, plus it needs cleaning off before varnish as you can see it on the surface of the paint when dry.

argon oil
hair conditioner
hand cream, you can see lumps of hand cream that wouldn’t dissolve on the painting
Cyclomethicone Liquid – makes cells but I find it leaves “holes” and thin patches in paint
Cyclomethicone Liquid – you can see the uneven surface of the dry painting.

I’ve got a video below of the hair conditioner and argon oils process but I need to work on lighting, you can’t see the actual painting as well as I’d like.

I also bought some new metallic paints and I should be uploading a video of those tomorrow or friday. Sadly the memory on tablet for that ran out just about a minute before the end…more for me to learn to check!

The dry painting is below

Once its varnished the shine comes back and the metallics have a subtle gleam. This is the kind of painting I want resin for but so far I’m still working on getting it right.
Here’s one that had pin holes in coat one, coat two has ripples on surface and has slipped back from edges, don’t know why, I’d checked that and they were covered but…lets see what coat three brings once its dry enough. This resin ( the cheaper marine resin) seems to have a slight yellow tint, didn’t show on ones that were all colour but does on this one with white. I think TBH maybe i need to stick with Pebeo, I’ve had best results with that and the finish is exactly what i want, and just suck up the cost. Keep it for any real favourites.