Painting over a failed canvas

I’d got a 16 x 20 deep edge canvas that I didn’t like, and was trying for some valentine paintings. sadly it was another fail so here I’m painting over it.
The first painting had texture medium added in parts, little beads, and the second one had glitter, but I’m just painting straight over it all. I haven’t gessoed as I’m using black, and that’s pretty good at covering. (well, it covers me very well….) If I’d used a lighter colour I probably would have given it a coat r two of gesso or under-paint.
I’m using a plastic insert from some xmas biscuits – like many artists everything gets looked at for possible use before being disposed of and I was hoping the paint would pour in ribbons from this – it did, I’m really pleased with it. I’ve two more, and they could probably take 2-3 goes each before they disintegrate, its quite flimsy plastic.
I picked colours at random, was in the mood for copper and blues. The leftovers got poured into more of the little bottles you can see me using towards the end ( after I did a further 6×6 in canvas) They are so useful, not expensive, found them on amazon and you can squeeze paint under layers with them or get some fine lines. I have 12, need another 12 though, its a great way of having ready mixed bits of paint to hand and saves waste.

Paintings overnight, semi dry.

The 6x6in done with leftovers, and some leftover paint from last week ( the pale pinkish colour)

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Testing Fairy Liquid against silicon.

 

I wanted to see if I could still get cells with fairy liquid instead of silicon. ( in US fairy is same as what you call Dawn I believe, stuff those like me who don’t have a dishwasher use!!)
I used 3 3×3 inch canvasses, all new ones, and marked them so i knew which was which. I added a few drops fairy to one, silicon to the second and nothing to third for a control.
All paints were my usual mix of paint, floetrol, and water. I did make the fairy one a bit thicker as the fairy i was adding was a 50/50 fairy water mix.
I tried to keep same amounts and add each colour in same order. I tried to only add a drop of silicon but with such a tiny amount of paint that was still too much i think and i don’t like the result that much, though it does go nicely with the others.
I really like both the fairy and the control one, and i may well use Fairy again. There aren’t any big cells but it seems to make what for me is a nice reaction with the paint. I’ll be interested to see how it works on a larger painting.
Dry pics, ( I brought them into house, ones is studio taking weeks to dry.)

Testing pva for waterfastness as a Resin type finish.

I’ve been looking for a resin type finish, tried Liquitex Pouring Medium, which looks good – not as good as resin but close. Its easier to use but works out expensive so I’ve tried PVA this time.

the LPM was fine with water and has dried with no marks.

the PVA, a fail, surface is tacky and absorbed water even when cold water used. that’s not camera/light glare, it’s where the pva has absorbed water and gone cloudy…

It looks fine at first glance, if I’d been a bit more careful in application it would be better, but what I really wanted to test was how it reacts with water once dry.
Resin and the Liquitex PM were both fine, even with boiling water, but this…well. Fail.
Even with cold water it softened and marked and as for boiling water, it went tacky and lifted really quickly.
I’m convinced there’s no place for it as a final coat, maybe with a varnish over it might be ok? I’m not going to use it that way but might be worth trying.

What did occur though is the thought – what about those who use it as a pouring medium? Is there any likelihood it will lift/soften in the same way? I’m guessing if work is varnished it won’t be a problem but its something to be aware of it you don’t/haven’t varnished.
Of course you’re not going to be pouring boiling water over your work as I did here for the experiment but we do hang art in kitchens and bathrooms, both of which can get quite steamy and moist air. Something to be aware of maybe. I can’t test that, I haven’t any successful ones I’ve used glue in, that’s why I gave up with using it as a medium, but perhaps someone that uses glue/PVA can confirm if they’re ok in rooms like this or not? .

Quick video pouring water over Liquitex Pouring Medium used as a final coat. 

 

 

I’d used Liquitex pouring meduim as a poured coating on this 6x6inch canvas, when i was trying to get a resin effect without the difficulty of resin working. Its good, but still not as good as resin, and to be honest works out very expensive that way for us here in the UK. I can only get it in litre bottles, thats largest size avaialable, and its around £29 for that. Now if we had those fab gallon tubs at $45 that I saw on sale in US this week…..BTW a gallon is about 4.5 litres – you can see why I weep when I see US prices. Anyway, I’d seen other use PVA in this way for a coating, but hadn’t got round to trying that. My carpenter brother and I were talking about painting and he said PVA will go tacky again in contact with moisture so its not a good idea to use it that way and it made me think about whether the liquitex would do that. So, first poured some cold water on and moved it arouind and then -0 well, I thought I’d go for it and pour on boiling water….and left it there for a couple of hours. the boiling water did seem to soften it a very little but no tackiness, and no fingermakrs so didn’t affect the actual coating, and now a few days later it looks the same as it always has. I will try this with PVA sometimes, right now though the studio is Freezing, its around 4c here in daytime and I’ll need to bring some stuff into the house to have a hope of the PVA drying enough to try this out. Might brave the cold later today 😉 then can try this next week once its dry.

basic paint mixing video and a failed hammer smash painting!

Well, I’ve played around with all sorts of mixes and additives in my search for the best for me medium. After all that I’ve come back full circle, using just floetrol, paint and water. silicon as wanted. I forgot the alchohol a few times and there seemed no difference so I leave that out too now. Here’s a quick video showing how I mix my paints, and the different brands I use.

Then using those colours I tried for a hammer smash painting. Forgot quite how to do it, used a mallet with a plastic bag over and frankly it was a fail. Looked at more and i need to leave off the bag, and hit much harder!! New attempt later this week….

I ended tilting and tipping the smash, adding more colour, swiping and tilting again. finally put it to one side not happy with it and then next day dropped an acrylic sheet in it while it was still damp….I think the universe was telling that was a fail 😉 Still, a canvas for re-pouring and some lessons learned, and I had fun.  I’ll post dry pics of these and what I did with the residue paint in a couple of days.

 

 

Couple of new videos, fire inspired experiments with elmers v liquitex pouring medium.

When they’re dry I’ll update and compare the difference. Nathan used elmers in a  2 parts pva 1 part water ratio, then add paint and thin if necessary. He’s seen a video. From my pva experiments i felt it would crack but he was sure it wouldn’t. Its still drying but there are some cracks so for me, with my paints elmers used solely or in this ratio won’t work.

cracks in drying paint bottom right

I’ve added liquitex glazing medium and a dash of floetrol in my experiments. Not sure what the glazing medium will do but it arrived Thursday so seemed a good time to try it. My paints are mostly heavy body, so I thought maybe it would be better to try this instead of so much water to thin. I do want to try maybe a floetrol and no water just glazing medium to see how that works, though I think that would work out expensive at the rate I play with paints…maybe a 50:50 mix might work.

NB Forgot to mention – there’s an error in next video, I said no silicon used but I sprayed inside cup before adding paints for dirty pour, and I added quick spray in yellow and red of the elmers glue cups… sorry. Very little overall though for all those cells 😉 

 

I tried liquitex pouring medium as a final cover, saw another artist recommending it but so far, a week later, the surface is still easy to scratch though it looks very resin like. I pushed my fingernail in and it left a dent, and just running nails over the surface left scratches. I’d worry about damage, and of course LPM isn’t cheap either here in UK.
I tried PVA but that didn’t have the smooth surface though did dry clear, and still had that easy scratch issue. I love the look of resin, just can’t get it right…..and its so expensive to practice with.

this is two coats LPM

negative space video ( incorporating Spider Rescue!!)

Painting with Beth last week, we were trying for negative space. She’s much quieter than Nathan, doesn’t add bits of info as I’m painting but just carries on quietly on her own work. Hers came out better 😉 I still seem to get too much colour or too muted colour, I didn’t really like what resulted, and swiped it, and swiped again and got a ….mess. I can’t seem to find a pic of the final result, probably so irritated at myself!  Its been painted over now 🙂

Beth’s negative space, some great bright colours and shapes.