basic paint mixing video and a failed hammer smash painting!

Well, I’ve played around with all sorts of mixes and additives in my search for the best for me medium. After all that I’ve come back full circle, using just floetrol, paint and water. silicon as wanted. I forgot the alchohol a few times and there seemed no difference so I leave that out too now. Here’s a quick video showing how I mix my paints, and the different brands I use.

Then using those colours I tried for a hammer smash painting. Forgot quite how to do it, used a mallet with a plastic bag over and frankly it was a fail. Looked at more and i need to leave off the bag, and hit much harder!! New attempt later this week….

I ended tilting and tipping the smash, adding more colour, swiping and tilting again. finally put it to one side not happy with it and then next day dropped an acrylic sheet in it while it was still damp….I think the universe was telling that was a fail 😉 Still, a canvas for re-pouring and some lessons learned, and I had fun.  I’ll post dry pics of these and what I did with the residue paint in a couple of days.

 

 

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Golden Primaries Trial

Golden gave me some samples, among them hansa yellow, pyrrhole red and pthlalo blue. I decided to use these in a negative space painting – and really try to be strict with myself because I fail miserably often with this, using too much colour. Its on a 10 x 8 inch canvas and I’m using little shot cups to mix, total colour for my dirty pour including some white is about 1/3 of a cup – and worked well!
the video shows the process, I’ve premixed the colours, trying to keep it short…usual mix, paint, floetrol, water, silicon. Usually i use 1:1 paint and floetrol but the golden colours are so intense its more like 1 paint to 3 floetrol and could probably go even less. Golden do say their fluid can be diluted 1 to 15 for pouring…..These aren’t fluid but a kind of soft body paint – as in the paint is soft body, not for painting on soft bodies – each to their own though 😉

 

just red, yellow and blue, but I have greens, browns, violets in the final piece.

I also wanted to try a fun challenge, a painting using grey, silver, gold, pink and either white or black. I chose black but TBH it was a disaster. the silver is several years old and as I discovered, gone pretty lumpy. I thought I’d got lumps out but as final work shows I haven’t….

But as always its a learning experience, I would either chose white next time, or a lighter grey, or perhaps less black and grey, have them as accent colours? I might do this again just to see if i can get it better.
I used the run off from both to pour over some rocks for Norfolk Rocks, fun thing where people hide rocks for kids to find…And then the tray with that run off got used for some dips. Some predictably were awful, greyish brown sludge by the end but two came out pretty well.  I bought a few fridge magnets so might cut the best bits and put into them.

colours used plus white

I forgot I did a couple with some new fluorescent paints, ordered a few but so far only got green and yellow – but new paints won’t wait 😉 so used a couple of others and did one dirty pour flip cup, and one just a pour.

sadly lost that fab out-of-cup look.
dirty flip cup pour
same colours but poured from cup along canvas. I didn’t like the centre so poured quite a bit to get rid of it.

video of the resin coated card and light MDF trials

I mentioned these in a post a few days back  here

I’ve got the video uploaded now if anyone wants to see them in action and they’ve dried pretty much as they looked when wet – aside from the usual glossy loss, but varnish will sort that. I’ve uploaded dry but pre varnish pics below to show.

As someone has pointed out its in portrait not landscape mode. My bad, sorry. I’ve been working on getting less glare and ensuring I’m out of the way as much as I can and completly missed that.
I’m really pleased with the board and have ordered more, this is A4 size, but I’d like to try larger to see if it warps at all then. there’s a very tiny bend, upwards oddly, in this one, barely noticeable unless it’s laid on a flat surface, and could be a one off, maybe i had too much paint or a little too thick perhaps? I’ll see when I’ve tied more but for now I’m happy. They’ll be easier to store too than canvas, taking up less room. That’s a problem when you’re a prolific artist *blush* and haven’t much space in studio…..

this one is on board, but i didn’t have enough paint and tilted so much i lost all my lovely cells…
this one is on card, I used more paint, tipped less.
section of above painting when dry. See how the colours have split.

I hate giving up so had yet another try with housepaint. Aiming for a negative space and using an icing bag, i worked on the A4 MDF. Got too much colour – no surprise there, and when it dried, usual issue of the colours splitting and separating. One of the paints I’d used was a new sparkly clear one and that really shows up on the original and actually the separation kind of works but its not want I want to happen every time.

Last night i was cleaning some of silicon and varnishing a couple more and just had to have a quick play using one of the Golden colours, and its fabulous. A really rich,  transparent magenta and where it bleeds into the white I love it. another negative space attempt, I’m getting there…It was over one i did last week that I didn’t like. that was a pour that failed, swiped, added more colours swiped again and still didn’t like it so when it was dry I reused it. Clearly these boards are pretty robust.

Lighting isn’t great but you get the idea…
This is the fail I used and painted over for the above image.

Advice from Golden, and an update on experiments

I’ve always loved Golden and Liquitex paints and used them in my painting but with pouring acrylics I go through so much paint its just not feasible to use them solely 😦 Yesterday I thought I’d write/email them to see if they’ve any samples I can use for testing and show in the blog and got a lovely reply back saying yes! I forgot to say I was in UK though but hopefully I’ll still get them. They also pointed out this link

http://www.justpaint.org/understanding-the-techniques-of-pouring-acrylics/

which is packed with advice on Golden high flow paints and pouring. I have seen it before ( we pouring artists seem to devour up advice on the net!!) but it bears repeating.
After reading this I’m thinking I might try using alchohol to thin my heavy body acrylics instead of water, maybe before i add floetrol or similar…
Lately I’ve been doing so many experiments and they’ve all gone bad – well, almost all, and that’s why there’s not been much here. I’ve a few waiting to be photo’d and I’ll add them soon but most just got scraped off. Yesterday I just went back to basics, paint, floetrol, water and dimethicon. I forgot the alchohol….and i did get what i hope will dry into a good painting. Sometimes they look great wet but the paint keep changing and they dry very different.
This one was a negative space attempt, that went wrong, got swiped, swiped again, scraped up and tilted, and ended with first pic. Added lots more red and purple and swiped again and got pic two. I’m still uncertain whether to keep or paint over. It might grow in me 😉 I don’t hate it but its not got anything special either. On these first three i used a mix of elmers glue-all and floetrol. I’m still not convinced of glue though and as it costs for elmers in uk, and the pva here I’ve tried don’t work for me i’m avoiding them once I’ve used them up. Others get great works, not me though.

another neg space that went wrong so i tilted it but still don’t like it. I knew if i swiped the colours would just merge unless i added more and i’d run out of time – so a repour on this one.

these two I was trying out a cheap white craft paint, I use loads of white ans as i just can’t seem to make housepaint work for me i thought i’d give this a try. It isn’t one I’ll use again unless i want a grainy effect. I quite like the way it splits and goes grainy on the first but the second, started as neg space and then i tilted and …well, i think i’d got paint too thin too this time so one repour, possibly two 🙂

I’ve a 20 x 20 ice/fire commission so practised on a couple of small ones first. I did a video of these, dif PM for each, floetrol and liquitex i think though I can’t quite remember. I’ll upload the video in a few days if i haven’t already. Had some internet issues…it happens. The two small ones were – well, but’s i like but overall they may be repours, i’m not sure yet. Its funny how often paintings I don’t like, not just pouring ones but my others, are the ones that sell, and those i love languish lonely in the studio or house.

So when i did the big ones, I changed it up. I used a mix of floetrol and LPM for these. The blue is a mica mix and very metallic looking. plus though you can’t see it there’s a fine silver glitter dusting. Love the first one, luckily so does the client, second was a swipe gone wrong, a repour one 😉 I seem to have loads of those lately.

wasn’t going to paint yesterday but had some leftover colour from Tuesday, the blue and pink grainy ones which i’d dropped into one cup and left, so mixed up a quick bit of orange, metallic green, black and purple to go with the two blues, yellow, magenta and tiny bit of white   in the cup, and did a dirty pour on a canvas I’d painted black over one I didn’t like. I’m pleased with how it came out, back to my basics with this, floetrol and paint 50/50, water to thin and some dimethicon. I’ve tried loads of different stuff now, but somehow floetrol or LPM works best for me and as I paint a lot ( and waste a lot) and floetrol is cheaper that’s what i use. If someone wants to pay extra for archival materials i keep the LPM for that, hopefully floetrol will last many years but there’s no data to support it while LPM is designed to do just that, and carries a price tag to match.
And is pouring – with rain not paint! today so don’t think I’ll be able to get out. cold too so fire is lit and maybe its a reading day. I do need to hoover, and TBH the oven needs cleaning, I keep putting it off but maybe its the day to do it as i can’t paint. we’ll see 😉

Couple of new videos, fire inspired experiments with elmers v liquitex pouring medium.

When they’re dry I’ll update and compare the difference. Nathan used elmers in a  2 parts pva 1 part water ratio, then add paint and thin if necessary. He’s seen a video. From my pva experiments i felt it would crack but he was sure it wouldn’t. Its still drying but there are some cracks so for me, with my paints elmers used solely or in this ratio won’t work.

cracks in drying paint bottom right

I’ve added liquitex glazing medium and a dash of floetrol in my experiments. Not sure what the glazing medium will do but it arrived Thursday so seemed a good time to try it. My paints are mostly heavy body, so I thought maybe it would be better to try this instead of so much water to thin. I do want to try maybe a floetrol and no water just glazing medium to see how that works, though I think that would work out expensive at the rate I play with paints…maybe a 50:50 mix might work.

NB Forgot to mention – there’s an error in next video, I said no silicon used but I sprayed inside cup before adding paints for dirty pour, and I added quick spray in yellow and red of the elmers glue cups… sorry. Very little overall though for all those cells 😉 

 

I tried liquitex pouring medium as a final cover, saw another artist recommending it but so far, a week later, the surface is still easy to scratch though it looks very resin like. I pushed my fingernail in and it left a dent, and just running nails over the surface left scratches. I’d worry about damage, and of course LPM isn’t cheap either here in UK.
I tried PVA but that didn’t have the smooth surface though did dry clear, and still had that easy scratch issue. I love the look of resin, just can’t get it right…..and its so expensive to practice with.

this is two coats LPM

Latest plays, some bright cells,

I’ve had a few disasters, downside of trying new things, some work, some don’t, so decided to stick with my tried and trusted mix, but see if I can get cells with more than one colour deliberately, I’ve had it happen accidentally, but wondered if I could influence the process.
Did a small one first, this is 4 x 4 inches 
Then I moved to a larger canvas, 6 x 18 ins I think. I’m pleased with this one but the second didn’t come right, and I swiped too many times, making the colours join and just become too orange, no contrast . One for painting over later 😉 There’s a video of this one at the end of this post. Sorry, you get a bit of me upside down at the end, didn’t switch tablet off properly….oops!  too much swiping blended the colours and lost any contrast. Here;s the fails, I tried swiping with pink, didn’t like the result but that could just be my colour choices. I swiped with matallic blue on one last week and liked that.

I’m still thinking over this one, whether to keep or repaint. Its not what I was after but I quite like the subtle effects and soft colours. Its another 6 x 18 in canvas

Video for the bright 6 x 18 painting.

Updates and new works.

house paint and water only, for the white.

cracked when dry, i thought maybe too thick but still cracked when thinner

Well, the housepaint isn’t a great sucess, tried it thick, tried it thin, tried with floetrol, tried with floetrol plus PVA and all produces cracks or separation of paint when dry 😦 I’m having one last try with no extras, just water and silicon. (see below, first pic) Sod’s law that i like the trial one better than the one i did with white artists acrylic ( second pic). Fiddled too much, a huge issue I always have, knowing when to stop!

I’ve had a few failures besides these…and painted over them 😉 Nathan, no 2 grandson who is 12, came to paint again recently. The kids all love doing these, they choose colours and method and pretty much do it themselves now. I love his one here, black, white ( just a little of the housepaint – so far minimal cracking,) yellow and red. he did a flip cup dirty pour with minimal tilting and its gorgeous, reminds me of lava flows and volcanoes. These two were with floetrol, 100% alchohol and dimethicone. I’m using that all the while now instead of the other silicons I’ve tried, works best for me. I use a spray to coat inside cups to help paint pour out too. 

Mine wasn’t such a sucess, and paint has split in a few sections 😦 though doesn’t look as bad as cracking, I notice it but no-one else seems to, they think its part of the effects I wanted !! Still working ion trying to keep that “just out of the cup” look. As you can see this is on top of a “fail” from earlier, same colours, done on a piece of primed MDF. I love working on wood but its heavy, couldn’t lift for a flip cup….and of course needs framing. Still, I’ve some big 4 x 8ft sheets doing nothing in shed so my lovely big brother is going to cut some up for me 🙂
Still undecided about this one I did a few weeks back, will varnish and see then. The metallics made from mica plus floetrol worked well, I poured them over after pouring.

Its been a busy week, and when I have been home its been raining so I can’t get into artshed – raining right now too….yesterday it was fine so I spent the time varnishing the ones i’d removed silicon from on Friday. That’s the downside of silicon, removing it. The dimethicon I’ve been using sits on top of the dry painting and its easy to see it, not so easy to be sure you’re got it all….I spray with a 50-50 mix of washing up liquid and water, wipe off, then rub in talc, and wipe off with alcohol. I hate when varnishing and there’s silicon that resists the varnish.