I bought a sachet of silver glitter for house walls use, and have been playing with that. I just mix it with medium rather than add it to paint.
I’ve had an issue on occasions with minwax cracking. I actually like the effect so it doesn’t bother me but I’ve seen comments that suggest others don’t like it and I wanted to see if adding more varnish would cover it. I took an old, badly cracked on and applied a second coat of minwax, using it with a brush as usual on one half, and flooding it almost like resin on the second half.I used a silicon makeup sponge to flood the left side, and my usual brush for the right.
I had a play with three 8x8inch canvases with minwax, using the silicon applicator, it does seem to prevent those brush strokes i have an issue with too often! I flooded it on the first one and…it gave me some very deep cracks. could be drying temp, could be that I need a layer of varnish first to make a smoother surface for the varnish to pool on? who knows, but actually I like it 😉 You can buy special crackle glazes – clearly I don’t need to…I’ve given it a second ordinary coat when dry as I worried the crackles might work loose.
still on the no heat trials I decided I’d do one with no silicon too.
I did a swipe and usually I get better cells than this, I don’t know if its because there’s no silicon or that maybe my paints were a bit too thin. I don’t think it was the paint, usually if its too thin I get a lot of runoff and I didn’t with this. I have had good results before without silicon but then i used torch, so I think its just the combo of both on this occasion. I could probably do the same again and get totally different end result – that’s the beauty of fluid art for me, so difficult to predict.
One thing I notice from the final dry painting is that the metallic red has taken over and i can see other colours, lines and shapes below it but they just can’t seem to break through it, next time I’ll either leave it out of use just a small amount.
I’m not really happy with the painting as it is but I think it’ll make a nice background for a silhouette of something, bare trees maybe?
There have been discussions recently on facebook groups about possible breathing issues/poisonous fumes when using torch or heat gun. I don’t always torch, sometimes I want a “less busy” painting, to just enjoy clean lines of colour, but notice the cells still appear. I thought I’d do a video showing how you can get cells using floetrol even if you don’t torch. I used spray silicon, but have done works without silicon and still ended up with a few cells.
I’m using some new fluorescent paints, and as they are transparent I’ve picked a couple of opaque blues. Original plan was to use black, but I didn’t have enough premixed so I used white, then realised I didn’t have enough of that so used black too. From end result I used too much black/white not enough colour. I also didn’t mix enough paint and tilting to cover canvas lost me some of the cells.
I looked a couple of hours later hoping the fluorescent paints would have burst through but not as much as i hoped so i pulled through some paint on a lolly stick, the remnants in the cups, to add some vibrancy.
As a painting its a bit meh….the canvas was an old one and even though I checked level as normal it was a bit loose and paints pooled in centre losing some of the lovely shapes. It’ll probably be one for adding extras to once dry. As an experiment though to see how you can still get interesting effect and cells without torching it works.
I wanted to see if I could still get cells with fairy liquid instead of silicon. ( in US fairy is same as what you call Dawn I believe, stuff those like me who don’t have a dishwasher use!!)
I used 3 3×3 inch canvasses, all new ones, and marked them so i knew which was which. I added a few drops fairy to one, silicon to the second and nothing to third for a control.
All paints were my usual mix of paint, floetrol, and water. I did make the fairy one a bit thicker as the fairy i was adding was a 50/50 fairy water mix.
I tried to keep same amounts and add each colour in same order. I tried to only add a drop of silicon but with such a tiny amount of paint that was still too much i think and i don’t like the result that much, though it does go nicely with the others.
I really like both the fairy and the control one, and i may well use Fairy again. There aren’t any big cells but it seems to make what for me is a nice reaction with the paint. I’ll be interested to see how it works on a larger painting.
Dry pics, ( I brought them into house, ones is studio taking weeks to dry.)
I’ve been looking for a resin type finish, tried Liquitex Pouring Medium, which looks good – not as good as resin but close. Its easier to use but works out expensive so I’ve tried PVA this time.
the LPM was fine with water and has dried with no marks.
It looks fine at first glance, if I’d been a bit more careful in application it would be better, but what I really wanted to test was how it reacts with water once dry.
Resin and the Liquitex PM were both fine, even with boiling water, but this…well. Fail.
Even with cold water it softened and marked and as for boiling water, it went tacky and lifted really quickly.
I’m convinced there’s no place for it as a final coat, maybe with a varnish over it might be ok? I’m not going to use it that way but might be worth trying.
What did occur though is the thought – what about those who use it as a pouring medium? Is there any likelihood it will lift/soften in the same way? I’m guessing if work is varnished it won’t be a problem but its something to be aware of it you don’t/haven’t varnished.
Of course you’re not going to be pouring boiling water over your work as I did here for the experiment but we do hang art in kitchens and bathrooms, both of which can get quite steamy and moist air. Something to be aware of maybe. I can’t test that, I haven’t any successful ones I’ve used glue in, that’s why I gave up with using it as a medium, but perhaps someone that uses glue/PVA can confirm if they’re ok in rooms like this or not? .